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HDMI cable repair kit

$44.00

or 6 weekly interest free payments of NZD $7.33 with

repair a broken off HDMI connector with this kit. please buy 2 sets and replace both ends unless you are absolutely certain you can make sure each cable in the repair kit corresponds with the correct pin at the other end of the cable!

Out of stock

SKU: TOC-HD03 Categories: , , Brand:

Description

Warning!!! Read the instructions on the resources tab. Rapallo is not responsible for any damage done to HDMI equipment due to incorrect wiring. ground wire goes to connector 20

Additional information

Weight 0.5 kg
Dimensions 10 × 5 × 5 cm
Specifications

Pin 1
TMDS Data2+

Pin 2
TMDS Data2 Shield

Pin 3
TMDS Data2−

Pin 4
TMDS Data1+

Pin 5
TMDS Data1 Shield

Pin 6
TMDS Data1−

Pin 7
TMDS Data0+

Pin 8
TMDS Data0 Shield

Pin 9
TMDS Data0−

Pin 10
TMDS Clock+

Pin 11
TMDS Clock Shield

Pin 12
TMDS Clock−

Pin 13
CEC

Pin 14
Reserved (HDMI 1.0–1.3c), Utility/HEC/ARC (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with HDMI Ethernet Channel and Audio Return Channel)

Pin 15
SCL (I²C Serial Clock for DDC)

Pin 16
SDA (I²C Serial Data Line for DDC)

Pin 17
DDC/CEC/ARC/HEC Ground

Pin 18
+5 V (min. 0.055 A)[3]

Pin 19
Hot Plug detect (all versions) andHEC/ARC (Optional, HDMI 1.4+ with HDMI Ethernet Channel and Audio Return Channel)

Why buy from us?

Rapallo is an independently owned New Zealand company and with more than 15 years experience, we offer you both technical expertise and superior service.

Rapallo is fully authorized to sell products by all of the manufacturers listed on our website and in our store. In most cases we are more than a reseller, we are a direct dealer who also receives training and where possible we personally test products we sell.

Authorized dealers like us offer peace of mind. Rapallo

  • meets manufacturer’s standards, from sales to service, in order to receive authorized status.
  • often receives training directly from manufacturer representatives and shares that expertise with you.
  • provides  support for all the products they sell.
  • ensures that manufacturer warranties will be honoured.
  • buys directly from big brand manufacturers and guarantee you buy NZ new, (no grey imports or parallel imports).

The Internet is an incredibly convenient information source and a wonderful way to find savings on the products you want. Protect yourself online by buying from authorized dealers, with genuine feedback and reputations.

A price too good to be true, usually is.
If you’ve ever searched for a product on a shopping engine (such as Priceme/Pricespy) you may have asked yourself, “Why are some stores charging so much less than other stores?”

Our customers often share these stories with us, so we thought we would share a few with you, in hopes that you don’t fall prey to any of these unscrupulous sales tactics.

  • Goods may be grey market/parallel imported. They may state that the product includes the manufacturer warranty, but not tell you that the warranty is valid only in Europe, Japan, or South America, and NOT in NZ.
  • You may be asked to buy an expensive extended warranty. In many cases if you do not purchase the warranty, your purchase will be denied. (The product is now out of stock, your card does not go through, etc.)
  • Included parts may be sold to you separately. Some resellers will open boxes and charge extra for parts that are normally included by the manufacturer.
  • Hidden charges which don’t show up until your credit card statement arrives, these charges only show up when your credit card statement is sent to you.
  • When something goes wrong, faulty, late delivery, doesn’t matter how many times you try to email, they don’t get back.
  • There are so many scamming online sellers today, “buyer beware” protect yourself!

Think you have a better price from someone in NZ (authorised dealer)? Call us, we’ll see what we can do.

12 months interest free over $1,000 or 18 months interest free over $2,000 finance available (on non-discounted items). Apply here.

Call us 09 2744515

Concerned About Fraud?

The internet has become a more popular source for online shopping, regrettably we have seen more and more instances of fraud affecting online shoppers. Companies trading under many  different names, loading warranties and charging for them as extras when often they are included from the manufacturer. Parallel imports or personal imports where the NZ supplier refuses to repair when things go wrong is often alarming to the unsuspecting purchaser. Inflated freight charges, customs and GST at the border are often forgotten as a buyer is tempted by a lower price. Constantly we hear all these stories, once bitten it’s all to late looking for that refund or replacement. The stories are outrageous at times, customers from Trademe and ebay with no place to turn, time consuming and very frustrating….

So how do you protect yourself from online fraud?

  • Buy from an authorized reseller. If you are at all suspicious, contact the manufacturer directly and ask if a company is authorized to sell their products.
  • Make sure you get a company invoice with GST clearly marked.
  • Make sure you buy from someone who has a phone number and an address on their website, not a P.O.Box number
  • Read customer feedback, you can usually tell if it’s genuine or not.

We hope that you will become our next happy customer. And we promise to offer you superior service before, during and after your purchase.

Pin 20 is the ground wire Keeping Your Signals Straight: Now that you have found a way to fix the broken HDMI connector on your cable, you still have the formidable task of making sure you connect the right wire to the right pin. With 19 wires, it’s easy enough to mix up. HDMI Pinout Diagram There is no standard for color-coding the wires and it can become very easy to make a mistake.   It’s not necessary to understand what each wire is for, but it is important to understand which wire goes to which pin. If you make a mistake and wire the wrong wire to the wrong pin, you risk damaging your components. This diagram shows the pin layout, as if you’re standing in front of the connector. The wider section of the connector is the top of the connector, and contains the odd pins 1 – 19. The lower section, the narrower part of the connector, contains even pins 2-18.  Make sure to keep these locations straight when looking at the HDMI connector from the reverse side. To complicate matters further, there are different wiring configurations for HDMI Cables with Ethernet (Standard HDMI Cable with Ethernet and High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet) and HDMI Cables without Ethernet (Standard HDMI Cables and High Speed HDMI Cables).  The connectors/pins are the same but the raw cable is constructed differently. The diagram below shows the cable construction of an HDMI Cable without Ethernet (previously called 1.3) on the left, and an HDMI Cable with Ethernet on the right (previously known as 1.4). Pins 1-13, 15, and 18 are the same in both cables.  Pins 14, 17 and 19 are different not only in how they are used, but also in how they are constructed.  In order to add Ethernet capabilities, pin 14 (which is unused/reserved for future use in the left HDMI Cable) is now combined with pin 17 to form a twisted pair, along with pin 19 which becomes the shield for these two channels (the HEAC channel on pins 14 and 17) and also serves as the Hot Plug Detect. Pinout Diagram for HDMI with and without Ethernet see photo in images  So how can you determine which wire goes where?  Since you most likely won’t have a wiring diagram to tell you which wires go to which pin, you’ll have to figure it out on your own.  Here are a couple of ways you can find out which wire goes to which pin: Do not get rid of your existing connector. If you have to replace an existing connector, use it to find out which of the 19 wires goes to which connector. Cut open the molding (make sure you do not cut your fingers or the wires) to expose the wires at the point of connection. If you don’t have access to this, you might use a multimeter’s resistance function to check continuity between pins and wire ends.  This of course will be more challenging if they’re far apart from each other or in a different room.  Unless your probes are very small, use a small gauge wire to insert into each pin to test the continuity.  If this is your only option, be very careful that you don’t damage your existing HDMI connector by trying to force the probes from your multimeter into the tiny pinholes on the HDMI connector. Once you’ve identified each wire, create a diagram to show which color wire goes to which connection.  Make sure this is absolutely correct before beginning your connections. Also it’s important to note, there will be 4 or 5 groups of three wires (usually three wires wrapped in an outer foil). For HDMI cables WITHOUT Ethernet, there are four sets of three wires, and seven discrete wires. For HDMI cables WITH Ethernet, there are five sets of three wires, and four individual wires. It’s important to make sure that you maintain these groups when connecting the wires to the pins.  For example, if you’re connecting TMDS Data 2 (pins 1-3), you must use the three wires that are wrapped together and connected to pins 1-3 on your existing connector.  Some wires may have the same color, and most/all of the drain wires will look the same so it’s easy to mix up.  Make sure you maintain these groupings exactly as they were connected previously. If you look closely, you’ll notice one additional connection.  There will also be an outer shield, a braided metal sleeve that surrounds all of the cables.  This sleeve is not connected to any pin, but rather it is connected/soldered to the outer connector/hood.
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